These pages are dedicated
rock climbing in South East
Cornwall (see map).
This area is covered in detail by
St Ives Printing & Publishing’s
book Cheesewring & South East Cornwall:
A Climbers’ Guide (August 2012) by Barnaby
Carver & Sean Hawken.
Cornwall is famous for its
sea cliffs, with West Penwith being a popular destination for visiting
rock climbers. However, it is in South East Cornwall that the widest variety
of climbing styles can be found. Here challenging technical sport climbs
and bold traditionally protected routes can be found side by side; adventurous
sea cliff routes and more lighthearted deep water solos are on offer at
the same crag; various natural inland outcrops provide climbing in a multitude
of settings and on a range of different rock types; and there is bouldering
aplenty on the high granite moors or balmy south facing beaches.
The major inland climbing
venue is Cheesewring Quarry which has a Main Face that rises to 36 metres
at its highest point. Home to nearly 150 routes, the quarry rivals more
well known Cornish cliffs in terms of the sheer number of recorded climbs.
Although it has a reputation for boldness there are many amenable lower
grade routes on its smaller faces as well as a collection of high-quality
sport routes in the F6a to F7c range. For these,
the smooth quarried granite provides a climbing medium that is almost
unique in the context of British sport climbing.
Although far fewer in number
and generally smaller, Bodmin Moor’s tors
are akin to those on Dartmoor and some of their routes can be regarded
as true classics of granite moorland climbing. Additionally the ever increasing
amount of bouldering on Bodmin Moor will surely earn the area wider recognition
sooner or later. South East Cornwall also hides more peculiar natural
outcrops such as those in the beautiful Luxulyan Valley and the popular
and unusual Roche Rock.
The South Coast from Falmouth
to Plymouth may be off the radar of most climbers but it hides major cliffs,
such as those of Nare Head and Dodman Point, and a few delightful and
welcoming beach venues like Lantic Bay with its pleasant low- to
mid-grade slab climbing and Downderry Beach – home
to some excellent bouldering workouts.
On these pages can be found
and information on New Routes in
South East Cornwall. The Guidebook
page has details and reviews of the current definitive climbing guide
for the area and you can also read about the Previous
Guidebooks. Cheesewring & South
East Cornwall can be bought directly from
the publishers here.
Dave Henderson’s website
– provides wider coverage
of climbing in the South West, while climbing guides to the neighbouring
guidebook areas are published by the Climbers’